Lazy Ox Canteen: Little Dishes, Big Adventure

It doesn't get any better than local ingredients, artistic preparation, and low prices. That's the philosophy behind the Lazy Ox Canteen, owned by Michael Hide Cartenas. This new restaurant on South San Pedro in Little Tokyo, L. A. is one of the latest culinary hot spots in the thriving downtown area.

On one visit to the Lazy Ox, the Spoons made the mistake of trying to celebrate a birthday on the same day L. A. Magazine declared it the best new restaurant of the year (though we still give the award to Canelé). The hostess told us our wait would be twenty minutes, but we waited at the bar for over ninety minutes before heading over to sushi in Little Tokyo (more on that some other time).

Nevertheless, our two other visits to Lazy Ox both before and after the big news were memorable. Big Spoon likes the euro-cali-asian-mexi-mashup of dishes, all suspended above a safety net of small servings (read tapas) that can be shared or passed along if the going gets too rough. He also likes the craft beers and the casual-cool atmosphere of the place. Little Spoon likes the fact that words like "neck", "lengua", "quinoa" and "za'atar" dot the menu, providing a palette for the imagination even before the actual tasting commences. The food is delicious, and the service is friendly.

Inside tip: The lunch menu is different (and a bit more tame) than the dinner menu, making noontime dining a more mellow experience. Big Spoon had a gourmet grilled cheese (top photo) while Little Spoon had a pork and beef ragu (middle photo), both good. An ricotta fritter appetizer (bottom photo) was also delish.

The Best Restaurant In Los Angeles

Both Big Spoon and Little Spoon are big fans of Canelé. It’s a hidden gem on Glendale Boulevard in Atwater Village. We fell in love with this place about a year ago after our stint in France came to an end. With its red walls, exposed brick and blackboard with the day’s offerings written, it brought back the ambience of France without the ten-hour flight. Canelé is cozy, unpretentious and delicious with an offering of Mediterranean and French food.

Canelé also hosts a variety of "Friends cook" evenings, when local chefs come to prepare a special meal for the evening. Truly, this place has a great community feel with an environmentally conscious attitude.

For a special treat sit at the counter where you have an excellent view into the kitchen. Hard-working, tattooed chefs prepare rustic food using rustic utensils and cookware. Watching them is always great fun – a whole branzino baked in a bed of salt, juicy pork chops, and bistro steaks being worked on at the meat station, a classic cheese plate put together on a wooden paddle. And chef/co-owner Corina Weibel often orchestrating it all: “I need three market specials and two steaks in seven minutes.”

Big Spoon favors the fat, juicy oven-roasted pork chop topped with a meyer lemon relish. Little Spoon's pick is the seasonal appetizer polenta with chanterelle mushrooms and egg. The duck confit is also a good choice and comes with roasted apples, sweet potato, arugula and almonds, or start with a pissaladiere, the onion tart with fresh herbs. As already mentioned, the menu changes with the season, but the essence of the place remains the same – casual atmosphere, sophisticated cooking. There’s always a warm greeting from the hostess, reliable service from the waitstaff and at the end of every meal, a small parting gift as you head out the door – a fresh baked canelé that deserves to have the restaurant named after it.

We bring friends here a lot and when we do, it is always a hit. Is Canelé the best restaurant in LA? Maybe. Maybe not. It is certainly our favorite.